{"id":19113,"date":"2025-10-07T23:23:19","date_gmt":"2025-10-08T03:23:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/?p=19113"},"modified":"2025-10-07T23:23:19","modified_gmt":"2025-10-08T03:23:19","slug":"a-stitch-in-time-integrated-sewing-with-lesley-ware","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/a-stitch-in-time-integrated-sewing-with-lesley-ware\/","title":{"rendered":"A STITCH IN TIME: INTEGRATED SEWING WITH LESLEY WARE"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>By Sarah Montague<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-nowrap is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-ad2f72ca wp-block-group-is-layout-flex\">\n<p>The classrooms in the Parson\u2019s building at 2 W. 13<sup>th<\/sup> Street, and those allocated to Parsons courses in the University Center, make their functions clear.&nbsp; They are large, often with long work tables and stools.&nbsp; And they have a messy vitality that the bland and generic rooms at the Eugene Lang building between 11<sup>th<\/sup> and 12<sup>th<\/sup> Street cannot match.&nbsp; In short, they are about making.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So I was not surprised to find the classroom for Lesley Ware\u2019s Integrated Sewing class populated by dress dummies and its long worktables covered in fabric.&nbsp; Her eight students were working on their final projects, quietly smoothing their patterns, measuring, and draping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ware\u2019s presence at the New School was part of a career pivot.&nbsp; Her undergraduate degree was in Education and she has a Master\u2019s in public administration. &nbsp; She spent the first ten years of her professional life working for non-profits.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2250\" height=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/09\/unnamed-1-2250x3000.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-19093\" style=\"width:305px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/09\/unnamed-1-2250x3000.jpg 2250w, https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/09\/unnamed-1-1500x2000.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/09\/unnamed-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/09\/unnamed-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/09\/unnamed-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/parsons.edu\/undergrad\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/3\/2025\/09\/unnamed-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2250px) 100vw, 2250px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cAnd then I switched over to fashion.\u201d&nbsp; Where she sees her role as helping the next generation, a mission that includes five published books&#8211;<em> Sew Fab: Sewing and Style for Young Fashionistas<\/em>, <em>My Fab Fashion Style File<\/em>, <em>How to Be a Fashion Designer, 101 Ways to Love Your Style, <\/em>and <em>Black Girls Sew.&nbsp; <\/em>And of course, her work at Parsons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In a way that seems almost old-fashioned, Ware was exposed to sewing at a young age:&nbsp; \u201cMy Mom used to sew all of my clothing, all of my Halloween costumes, Easter dresses.&nbsp; So my first memories are of picking out materials, and buttons, and helping my Mom do the running stitch.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In contrast to the many environments being invaded by AI, this class is \u201cvery much hands-on,\u201d says Ware.&nbsp; She thinks that sewing is becoming increasingly popular because of shows like <em>Project Runway<\/em> and social media influencers who use their platforms to make things.&nbsp; \u201cI think sewing today is more about using what already exists, and upcycling\u2014taking things you already have in your closet and giving them a new life. &nbsp; I think this generation of sewers is more interested in the environment and having a connection to the way their clothing is manufactured.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To add a sustainability dimension to the class, Ware brings in designers who are working in this space to lecture, and takes her students on tours of their studios.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But today, two weeks before the end of term, it\u2019s all about making.&nbsp; Two weeks earlier, Ware took her students to Materials for the Arts, a well-known non-profit that offers students and teachers access to all kinds of materials, for all kinds of purposes.&nbsp; Each student sourced fabric\/s for their final projects.&nbsp; The assignment was to create a \u201cUniversal Design\u201d garment (one that can be used by a wide range of people with varying abilities and disabilities without any alternations being necessary.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After chatting with Ware, I make a circuit around the room to talk with the students.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Colin Levine <\/em>is making a skirt that can also double as a shawl.&nbsp; I mention the \u201cHoover apron\u201d a dual-purpose apron for housewives conceived of by the famously thrifty Herbert Hoover during his Depression-era Presidency.&nbsp; Colin\u2019s fabric is dense and weighty like a pelt, but less heavy than an earlier choice he rejected.&nbsp; He\u2019s laying out his pattern, the familiar paper mock-up of the eventual garment. This is a process it&#8217;s impossible to imagine being controlled by a bot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Ally Jack<\/em> is making a handbag that might convert into a hat; they\u2019ve also just finished altering a pair of denim pants by adding lace panels, so they\u2019ll be cooler and roomier for summer.&nbsp; Not apparently, without a struggle.&nbsp; \u201cI have my own sewing machine at home and she hates me.\u201d&nbsp; I offer up the slogan of the parodic philosophical movement Resistentialism, \u201c<em>Les choses sont contre nous<\/em>\u201d (\u201cthe things they are against us.\u201d)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Aanya Mayor<\/em> introduces me to the one of the electronic sewing machines, a brand called the Juki Straight Stitch. &nbsp; (Speaking of \u201c<em>les chose sont contre nous<\/em>,\u201d I have always been intimidated by sewing machines.&nbsp; If I had one, it would hate me.&nbsp; Anya is making a skirt, and this class was her first experience with a sewing machine.&nbsp; She didn\u2019t find it challenging, and says \u201cI haven\u2019t the patience to sew by hand.\u201d&nbsp; These machines are industrial strength\u2014Anya shows me a fingerless glove she made earlier in the semester; it\u2019s meaty fabric no challenge to the Juki.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Aanya\u2019s choice of fabric for the skirt is a luminous orangey shade, and feels like gabardine.&nbsp; She\u2019s not sure of her professional path yet, but says she wants to experiment and \u201cdo it my own way.\u201d&nbsp; I say that most of the best ideas start that way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Ian Nicastro <\/em>is taking Ware\u2019s repurposing principles to heart.&nbsp; He\u2019s reworking an old pair of trousers to make a new skirt.&nbsp; \u201cFashion is so accessible now; people are really interested in using old fabric and old garments rather than buying yards of fabric from the garment district. I think people are much more interested in sustainability these days.\u201d&nbsp; Ian had done some hand sewing before, but the class helped him learning machine sewing.&nbsp; He has a machine at home now.&nbsp; It\u2019s in need of repair, but he doesn\u2019t think it hates him.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Next, <em>Natalie<\/em> <em>Pete<\/em>r, with a really intriguing dual purpose concept.&nbsp; \u201cI\u2019m making a picnic blanket\/skirt.\u201d&nbsp; I point out that an attempt to turn the skirt into a blanket on the spur of the moment might result in an arrest for indecent exposure.&nbsp; She has an answer for that: &nbsp; \u201cThe idea is that you\u2019d be wearing, like shorts.&nbsp; So, yeah, it\u2019s like for when you\u2019re walking and you spontaneously want to sit in grass or something.\u201d&nbsp; This seemed improbable on the sulky April day when I visited the class, but now that we\u2019re nearly in June it has merit. &nbsp; The inside panel of Natalie\u2019s hybrid Is a kind of mustard (\u201cI thought it would look nice next to the grass\u201d) and she planned to use a brown fabric for the side that goes on the ground, so that potential grass stains wouldn\u2019t be as visible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When I asked Natalie if she\u2019s sewn before, her answer struck a chord: \u201cI\u2019m quite short, so I have to hem a lot of my clothes, or alter them; and when I was young I got a lot of hand me downs (that vital sartorial pipeline for large families.\u201d&nbsp; This was my problem too, before the advent of petite lines. &nbsp;I mention Jean Muir, a ground-breaking British designer in the 1960s. &nbsp;She fashioned the first line of clothes for smaller women because she often found herself having to buy children\u2019s clothes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>She\u2019s a Global Studies major, and says \u201cThis class has been fun because it\u2019s nice to get a break from more\u2014brainy\u2014subject matter and do something tactile with your hands.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Skylar Hinkley <\/em>is making a top and a bag out of various different lengths of Jersey.&nbsp; She\u2019s another veteran sewer who\u2019s been machine sewing since middle school but she stopped in order to pursue classes in support of her Photography major.&nbsp; \u201cIt\u2019s been nice to get back.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I step back for a moment to appreciate the <em>mise en scene<\/em>.&nbsp; One student is ironing his fabric to his pattern; one is draping her fabric on herself; the component parts of the various projects are now separate, so looked at from a distance, among the pale industrial tables and the dress dummies, the classroom looks like a de Chirico painting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This type of work is both results oriented, and a little existential.&nbsp; When does material become more than itself?&nbsp; And what challenges do you place before the students to bring out that combination of problem solving and creativity?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019ve been teaching a fashion-oriented course myself this semester, and marveled at all the ways we use and enact this word.&nbsp; \u201cTo fashion\u201d is to make, but \u201cfashion\u201d is a fluid concept that defines a dominate look, or culture, or system.&nbsp; It can beautify and uglify, it can be exalting, and pernicious.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the sewing class, it was nice to get back to first principles.&nbsp; Material has qualities, but not meaning, until that is imposed by a design, until, like a poet with a collection of words, the creator pulls it into the world.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Sarah Montague The classrooms in the Parson\u2019s building at 2 W. 13th Street, and those allocated to Parsons courses&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":573,"featured_media":19099,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[19],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-19113","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-faculty-spotlight"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.1.1 - 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